Thursday 27 April 2017

Bennett's Cross to Lustleigh: Day 30 of the South West Odyssey (English Branch)

The South West Odyssey was a long distance walk.
Five like-minded people started in 2008 from the Cardingmill Valley in Shropshire and by walking three days a year finished at Start Bay on the South Devon Coast in May 2019.

Updated with extra pictures and text 04 Nov 2018

A Tedious Little Prologue (skip if you have read Day 28 or 29)

The ‘five like-minded people’ would only be 4 again this year. I did my preparations and after four full-day practice walks with Mike and Francis and some solo strolls I was feeling fit and ready… except for a nagging little pain beneath my right heel.

Then, with less than a week to go, a further morning’s walk saw that nagging little pain exploded into something I could no longer ignore. It was no better next day and a trip to A&E resulted in a diagnosis of plantar fasciisitis, inflammation of and/or damage to the tendon where it joins the heel bone. And the cure? Rest, probably for several months.

Devon
But the accommodation was booked so Lynne and I went anyway. There were cars to shuffle which Lynne usually does on her own, food to be eaten and beer to be drunk for which my talents might be needed.

I found these three days frustrating, transferring people to starts, collecting them from finishes and in between hobbling around various tourist sites.

[Brian volunteered to accompany me filling in these missing legs in February and we walked Day 28, but the arrival of the ‘Beast from East’ forced a tactical withdrawal.

It was not until November that we returned to Drewsteignton, this time with Francis as well, to complete the job. I have added some extra photos and comments – in red, as before.]

Day 30, Bennett's Cross to Lustleigh
The morning started with scrapping ice from car windscreens before I followed Mike and Alison to Lustleigh where they left their cars at the end of walk. After breakfast I took the walkers back out to Bennett’s Cross. There was no snow today, instead there was a platoon of soldiers with packs and rifles preparing for a yomp across the moor. As the others pulled on their boots the soldiers appeared to be forming a firing squad so I courageously decided to leave. On mature reflection I realise I was in no danger, it was Alison they were after – several decades as a pacifist-activist must have made her enemies in the military!

Bennett's Cross on a bright but cold morning (Photo: Brian)

Francis now describes the walk He also took the pictures (except where noted).

We re-joined The Two Moors Way but only for a kilometre as we inadvertently veered off our planned route over Birch Tor.

[Our November Day did not start with frost, indeed it was tolerably warm, but the visibility was totaly different. We did not veer off over Birch Tor, though we could hardly see it from Bennett's Cross]

That's probably Birch Tor
We could see the unmistakeable outline of Grimspound on the hillside east of us so took a path to Headland Warren Farm then another across Hookney Tor to the pound.

[We could not see Hookney Tor, never mind Grimspound, and from the tor (once we had found it) the Warren House Inn had disappeared in the mist. It now started raining, and apart from occassional pauses for breath it rained for the rest of the day. At least it was relatively warm and there was only a gentle breeze so the rain fell vertically rather than being blown in our faces. It was more comfortable, than yesterday, but just as wet.]

Hookney Tor looking back to the Warren House Inn near Bennett's Cross (photo: Brian)
[Grimspound is just a drive and a short iron from the top of Hookney Tor. I was about half way down when I took the picture below.]


Grimspound from 200m away - it is there somewhere, and not very far away
[the photo below was taken from much further away - but under different conditions!]

Grimspound is a Bronze Age settlement (first settled 3,000BC) containing at least 24 huts. They were enclosed by a large double circle of granite stones but over time their walls have collapsed inwards to leave a single much lower circle.

Grimspound Bronze Age Settlement (Photo: Vince Hogg)
The best way to photograph Grimspound is form the air. As no one was carrying a drone in their pack I have taken Francis' advice and stolen this one from

[The best preserved hut in the centre of the circle is obvious in the picture above. We dropped in for coffee sitting on the walls during a brief cessation of the rain. It was nice to meet the Grims, but they should consider putting the roof back if they are hoping to open a coffee shop.]


The best preserved hut, Grimspound (and a little rain on the lens)
We continued on over the summit of the ridge and steadily down for our coffee stop on the grass near Natsworthy Manor then followed a track to Jay’s Grave. [Nobody knows who Jay was. The earliest report is from 1851 when the landowner's workmen discovered a skeleton. Enquiries suggested it was the remains of Ann Jay who had hung herself some 60 years previously. Many later reports add flesh to these bare bones, but I suspect the writers were more concerned with telling a good tale than getting to the truth. An unknown person regularly leaves fresh flowers on the grave and there was a goodly pile of loose change on the headstone.]


Jay's Grave - through a very watery lens
We joined a road here for just over a kilometre then headed uphill over Hound Tor Down passing Hound Tor on our left and Greator Rocks on our right.

Hound Tor
The path led down through woods to Becka Brook....


The Bridge over Becka Brook - it gives a fare impression of the day
....then up onto the side of Black Hill. We crossed a high minor road then steadily descended to the car park we want to use next year on a slightly lower road. [And that was where we stopped. We had started from here in April so all is properly linked up. It had been a far easier day than yesterday, mainly because it had been considerably shorter, but also because the conditions, though grim had been far better.]

From the lower road we descended steeply and then precipitously down through a deciduous wood to a track at its base - the shortest possible route to Lustleigh.

Here we had some brief refreshment after the ordeal of our descent then crossed a small packhorse bridge across the River Bovey....

Mike and Alison and the River Bovey
...before ascending and zigzagging on a track through Hisley Wood passing some excellent bluebells and reaching the minor road into Lustleigh.

Bluebells in Hisley Wood (Photo: Brian)
We planned to finish with a cream tea at the tea rooms but they were closed for renovation so instead we enjoyed drinks in The Cleave. Finally we walked to the cars, and so ended the tenth year of the Odyssey. For the four of us it had been a very enjoyable three days and we look forward to next year’s instalment.

The Cleave Inn, Lustleigh (Photo:Me - we joined the walkers at The Cleave)
But for the fifth it had been a frustrating time. Last year the walking had not been outstanding, much of it merely a matter of getting from A to B but this year had crossed fine walking country in almost perfect conditions – and I missed it. I hope I will get down to Devon later in the year and will then be able to look forward to the next instalment with everybody else.

Today's distance 17km
The total distance for the three days 61km

[I did not quite 'get down to Devon within the year', but I have done it now. Meanwhile all five of us have completed the 2018 walk and next April/May will bring this 12 year project to its completion.

Thanks to Brian and Francis for walking these repeat (for them) legs just to help me out - and in such unpleasant conditions. Thanks also to Brian and especially Hilary for the hospitality, it is very much appreciated.

Thanks also to Brian for lending me his camera. I took mine, but left the card in my lap-top in Staffordshire. I hope the camera recovers from its drenching.]




Wednesday 26 April 2017

Drewsteignton to Bennett's Cross: Day 29 of the South West Odyssey (English Branch)

The South West Odyssey was a long distance walk.
Five like-minded people started in 2008 from the Cardingmill Valley in Shropshire and by walking three days a year finished at Start Bay on the South Devon Coast in May 2019.

Updated with extra pictures and text 03 Nov 2018

A Tedious Little Prologue (skip if you have read Day 28)

The ‘five like-minded people’ would only be 4 this year. I did my preparations and after four full-day practice walks with Mike and Francis and some solo strolls I was feeling fit and ready… except for a nagging little pain beneath my right heel.

Then, with less than a week to go, a further morning’s walk saw that nagging little pain explode into something I could no longer ignore. It was no better next day and a trip to A&E resulted in a diagnosis of plantar fasciisitis, inflammation of and/or damage to the tendon where it joins the heel bone. And the cure? Rest, probably for several months.

Devon
But the accommodation was booked so Lynne and I went anyway. There were cars to shuffle which Lynne usually does on her own, food to be eaten and beer to be drunk for which my talents might be needed.

I found these three days frustrating, transferring people to starts, collecting them from finishes and in between hobbling around various tourist sites. (End of prologue)

[I needed to fill in these missing legs and Brian kindly volunteered to provide accomodation in Torquay and accompany me on the walks in February 2018. We completed Day 28, but the arrival of the ‘Beast from East’ then forced a tactical withdrawal.

It was not until November that we returned to Drewsteignton, this time with Francis as well, to finish the job. I have added some extra photos and plenty of extra text (in red).]

Day 29, Drewsteignton to Bennett's Cross
As we were staying a second night in Moretonhampstead, car shuffling was simpler this morning. Before breakfast Alison and Mike took a car to the finish at Bennett’s Cross, 3 kilometres onto Dartmoor and 435m up – details I mention only because they found the moor under a carpet of snow, a rare event in April though the snow would not last for long.

Mike leaves his car at snowy Bennett's Cross (photo: Alison)

Later I drove the walkers to Drewsteignton. It is a lovely village which I wrote about yesterday, though I failed to mention its little square with church and pub – what could be more cosily traditional?

Drewsteignton Square
My picture, but it's a shame I could not come back for the afternoon sun. 
Text (in blue) is now by Francis who took all the photos (except as noted).

It was again cold but we set off in clear sunshine. [The 3rd of November started as a very warm and pleasant day, for November – it would be a day of two halves!] We immediately dropped steeply down off the road and then steeply up on a path so punishing it needed steps, but at the top we were provided with an excellent view back to Drewsteignton.

Drewsteignton
We then had a very pleasant walk along the top of the valley side along the edge of Piddledown Common (yes, really). [Walking across Devon has involved an endless succession of ridges to climb, only to drop down into the valley beyond to climb the next ridge to drop….etc, etc. It was a rare pleasure to reach a ridge and to walk along it (or just below it) and enjoy the views].We were in the Castle Drogo Estate and caught a brief glimpse of the castle though it was hidden behind scaffolding.

Along the top of the Teign valley below Castle Drogo (photo: Alison)
[Sorry to interrupt. Castle Drogo, designed by Edwin Lutyens for Julius Drewe, founder of Home and Colonial Stores, was built between 1911 and 1930. It is often called ‘the last castle built in England’, but as there is no agreed definition of ‘castle’ and Castle Drogo was never in anyway fortified I prefer the description ‘vanity project'. Economic uncertainty meant it is only half the size originally planned and the asphalt roof – a new and untried technology - leaked almost from the start. In 1974 the building was donated to the National Trust and in the current six year restoration programme the roof is being replaced and the windows reset which accounts for the scaffolding. Lynne and I visited Castel Drogo while the others were walking; the gardens are magnificent, but the ‘castle’ will be a lot more interesting when fully reopened next year.] [The National Trust’s 'project watertight' is ongoing, so the scaffolding is still there.]


Castle Drogo, still scaffolded and covered in Niovember 2018
Much pleasanter sights were Whiddon Wood…

Whiddon Wood - looking remarkably like broccoli
and a Pearl-bordered Fritillary.

Pearl bordered fritillary
The path passed Hunter’s Tor then descended to the River Teign which we followed for 6 kilometres [it is a lovely walk along the Teign, too, so I have inserted one of my pictures as a complement to Francis']...


The River Teign near Dogmarsh Bridge, 03 Nov 2018
passing Dogmarsh Bridge where we crossed the A382 and shortly afterwards saw a red kite, Rushford Mill where we paused for coffee, and Chagford.

Along the River Teign
On the narrow road after Chagford Bridge we were passed (with difficulty) by an amazing number of delivery vans all heading to Gidleigh Park Hotel and were pleased to leave the road and join a footpath heading up to Teigncombe. [We were not troubled by delivery vans, but spots of drizzle started to become noticeable as we rounded Chagford and headed up towards Teigncombe. It was far too misty for the view below].

Looking back to Chagford
Here we left The Two Moors Way.... [A little navigational inattention meant we missed this path and appeared on the moor 300m metres to the north.]

The last stretch before the open moor (Photo: Alison)
.... and headed further up onto Dartmoor intending to pass north of Kestor Rock, but the best path went to it and it seemed sensible to visit the rocks and sit out of the cold wind on its lee side to have our lunch. Mike and Brian had bought pasties in Moretonhampstead, Alison had Bombay Mix while I made do with cereal bars. As we sat in warm sunshine admiring the 360 degree views we visually plotted our afternoon route.

Lunch at Kestor Rock
[We headed up up Kestor Rock through tussocks and gorse as the drizzle thickened and the wind began to blow. After a very pleasant morning the day was taking a turn for the worse, but the rock provided shelter for our lunch, too.]


Kestor Rock, November
The moor was incredibly dry and the afternoon walk was pleasant and easy. We came eventually to the restored Grey Wethers Stone Circles and then headed south-east over White Ridge (just over 500m) and east over Assycombe Hill to an ancient settlement on the side of Water Hill.

[The day became incredibly wet and the afternoon walk was unpleasant and difficult. The remains of Hurricane Oscar had worked its way across the Atlantic and we walked south across open moorland straight into a strong south wind driving the stinging rain into our faces. We gained a little shelter rounding the north of Fernworthy Forest, but seemed to have been toiling round it for ages before we again turned south into the teeth of the wind and picked up the path to a clapper bridge...


Clapper Bridge, near Grey Wethers Stone Circles
...and a few metres beyond that the Grey Wethers stone circles.


One of the Grey Wethers Stone Circles
Grey Wethers is a pair of stone circles, both about 30m in diameter with their centres aligned North-South. On a good day (like the 26th of April in Francis' picture below) I would have greatly admired these Bronze Age circles; in the circumstances my first thought was 'What the expletive did these people think they were doing building this out here?', closely followed by 'What the expleteive did I think I was doing out here?']

Grey Wethers, a pair of re-erected  (1909) pre-historic stone circles
From here it was an easy amble through the heather to meet the B3212 ..

Across the moor from Grey Wethers
[November did not provide an easy amble through the heather. Given the weather conditions and the visibility we followed a wall back to Fernworthy Forest and turned south beside it descending sharply to cross the Vitifer Mine Leat, then climbing to the 500m White Ridge. From the top I was hoping to be able to see the end of the walk, but instead the stumps of the forest stretched ahead until they dwindled into the mist. Words from Scott of the Antarctic's diary seemed to describe it well. 'Dear God, this is a dreadful place....' he wrote, though I cheered myself up with the thought that unlike Scott I still expected to get out of this dreadful place alive.

Darkness falls early in November, so to get off the moor in the light we followed a wall to the B3212 and walked along it to the car. It was a longer, but safer.]

...and follow it a short way to The Warren House Inn. Brian and I enjoyed pints of beer while Alison had a soft drink and Mike a pot of tea but quite why we opted to sit outside in the cold I do not know.

Sitting outside thee Warren House Inn (Photo: Alison)
I had planned a walk down to the old mines below the Inn then back up to the road at Bennett’s Cross but in the end there was a unanimous decision to simply follow the road to the car park.

Bennett's Cross
And who, you ask, was Bennett and why was he cross? The simple answer is nobody knows, there are theories but no definitive answer. Its age is unknown, too. It was mentioned in a tithe dispute in 1702 but its rough-hewn nature suggests it might be much older. It marks the boundary between the parishes of Chagford and North Bovey and once bore the letters WB for ‘Warren Bounds’ as it denoted the limit of Headland Rabbit Warren - so you knew if you were poaching someone else’s lunch.

Later, back in Moretonhampstead, we had pre-dinner drinks in The Horse. Francis described the Drewe Arms as ‘delightfully unimproved’ and at first glance the same could be said of The Horse, but I suspect it is more archly retro.

We ate a few doors down at Berto’s, a tiny Italian restaurant. We had booked yesterday on a recommendation from our B&B – and booking is necessary when six people want to eat at a restaurant with only four tables. Berto’s has no drinks licence but we non-walkers had been tasked with purchasing appropriate wine. The menu is limited but the quality is high and the flavours genuine. It has the vibe of a small family run Italian restaurant, which is what it is, if not quite in the expected place.

Walking to the car we passed a youth group coming off the moor with their leaders. We later passed the minibus going to pick them up. They were destined for a hostel, or worse, a night camping. We were heading for the warmth and comfort of Brian and Hilary's home, a hot shower, dry clothes and a good meal. The misfortune of others can be strangely cheering.

Today's distance 23km


The South West Odyssey (English Branch)

Tuesday 25 April 2017

Down St Mary to Drewsteignton: Day 28 of the South West Odyssey (English Branch)

The South West Odyssey was a long distance walk.
Five like-minded people started in 2008 from the Cardingmill Valley in Shropshire and by walking three days a year finished at Start Bay on the South Devon Coast in May 2019.

With updates (in red) February 26th 2018

24th of April 2017

The Prologue

Devon
The ‘five like-minded people’ were only 4 last April as Alison had been unavailable. She almost completed the walk in August but reaching Morchard Bishop on a fine, sunny day had decided to do to go to the seaside and have an ice-cream instead.

Accompanied by Francis and Mike, Alison closed the gap on Monday by walking not to Copplestone as we had done but to Zeal Monachorum. Copplestone is some way east of our intended route but had been a convenient starting point for the journey home, while Zeal Monachorum – a similar distance off route to the west - is a prettier village and home to the comfortable Waie Inn where Lynne, Brian and I joined them for dinner.

Tuckingmill Bridge, just outside Zeal Monachorum
Actually, Zeal Monachorum is a place I would visit for the name alone. It means Cell of the monks, the manor having been donated to Buckfast Abbey by King Cnut in 1018.

25th of April 2017

 Another Bloody Prologue

The ‘five like-minded people’ would only be 4 again this year. I did my preparations and after four full-day practice walks with Mike and Francis and some solo strolls I was feeling fit and ready… except for a nagging little pain beneath my right heel.

Then, with less than a week to go, a further morning’s walk saw that nagging little pain explode into something I could no longer ignore. It was no better next day and a trip to A&E resulted in a diagnosis of plantar fasciisitis, inflammation of and/or damage to the tendon where it joins the heel bone. And the cure? Rest, probably for several months.

But the accommodation was booked so Lynne and I went anyway. There were cars to shuffle which Lynne usually does on her own, food to be eaten and beer to be drunk occupations where my talents might be needed.


Day 28 Down St Mary to Drewsteignton
I found these three days frustrating, transferring people to starts, collecting them from finishes and in between hobbling around various tourist sites.

Enough Prologues, now down to the Odyssey....

Lynne drove the four surviving walkers to a point near Down St Mary close to where the Copplestone and Zeal Monachorum routes had diverged.

Booting up near Down St Mary
They started on a path beside a huge sloping field, a long tedious upward drag I remember from last year.

Looking back at Down St Mary
I eventually completed this walk with Brian on Feb 26th 2018. After delays caused by the Newton Abbot traffic and a road closure, we did not start walking until 10.30 a.m. We set off from the centre of Down St Mary and used a different route that may have avoided the long tedious upward drag, but quickly proved our decision not to wear gaiters was an error.


The lane from Down St Mary, partly frozen, partly mud

Francis now takes up the story in blue (the photos are by Francis, too, except where noted or captioned in red)...

Halfway up the field, I heard a bird whose song I did not know. We only got a brief glimpse of it flying but I think it was a lesser whitethroat. Having climbed the field, we turned right through the gate away from Copplestone on the Two Moors Way.

Our route brought us out 250m from the gate mentioned above, so we had to walk to the gate and back to close the gap, but here is a photo of it to prove we did.


 Actually this could be any gate, so you will have to take my word for it
It was a cold, sunny morning [it was not as cold as Feb 26 - the temperature peaked at zero degrees] which had started with a hail shower but would become perfect for walking. We soon reached the first main road we had to cross and beyond it Clannaborough Barton, once a hamlet now just a farm with a church.

The Church of St Petrock, Clannaborough Church
A strange little church that is taller than it is long. St Petrock's is early medieval with a 15th century make-over.
The 'unbuttressed west tower has hollow-chamfered plinth and embattled parapet with granite machicolations and crocketted corner pinnacles' (British Listed Buildings). Francis left those details out (perhaps I should have done the same).
The route was typically Devonian, that is up and down all the time. [It most certainly was] We arrived at a ridge-top for a brief coffee stop before a long descent to the Okehampton railway line..


Our descent to the railway line 26/02/18 - steeper than the camera makes it look
then a climb through woods, ....


We had a late coffee break on the climb up the other side
along a ridge and down a very deep descent which inevitably meant a steep climb up a road to the next ridge top.

Devon, going up and down all the way to Dartmoor
 We now had 4 kilometres to walk along the road ...

Following the road to Hittisleigh
 ...which followed the ridge [A walk along a ridge sounded a pleasant relief after the constant up and down, but even the ridge varied from 135m to 215m] to Hittisleigh Barton - a pleasantly restored village with some lovely thatched houses and fine old barns....

Old barn, Hittisleigh
.. and Hittisleigh Cross where we found a bench which we decided was a good place for a spot of lunch. One end was in pleasant warm  sunshine but Alison and I got the cooler shaded end and were happy when we got going again [We had a late lunch on the same bench - there was no 'cooler end', the whole bench was (literally) freezing from one end to t'other].

Lunch stop near Hittisleigh (photo:Alison)

We met some friendly horses and a group of miniature ponies at West Ford Farm [they were still there, looking a little cold]...

Miniature ponies, West Ford Farm
then climbed to the highest point of the day (225metres) exactly where we crossed the A30 [it was down-up, to the A30 and another down-up to Drewsteignton. The picturesque Veet Mill Farm nestled at the bottom of the final ascent]...

Footbridge at Veet Mill Farm
... and  walked the last section into Drewsteignton which, of course, ended with a really steep, tiring ‘sting in the tail’.   Mike and Alison, with David’s help, had positioned their cars in the village square before breakfast so Brian and Mike headed straight off to the B&B in Moretonhampstead  but Alison and I went into the delightful, unmodernised Drewe Arms where I enjoyed a superb gravity-fed Jail Ale to end the day on a massive high!

Mike sitting outside the delightfully unmodernised Drewe Arms, Drewsteignton
The Drewe Arms, formerly the Druid's Arms, was named after Julius Drewe (1856-1931) the founder of Home and Colonial Stores for whom the nearby Castle Drogo was built (more next post). The pub was managed by Mabel Mudge (and her husband while he lived) from 1919 until she retired in 1994 aged 99, the oldest pub licensee in the country.

Drewsteignton is a settlement above the River Teign owned in the 12th century by an Anglo-Norman called Drew de Teigntone, the original Drogo, from whom Julius Drewe claimed descent (though the claim involved some wishful thinking).

Today's Distance, 21km

We had planned a rest day for Tuesday 27/02/18 and to complete the walk on Wednesday and Thursday, but then the 'The Beast from the East', which had only been playing with us on Monday unsheathed its claws. Attempting to cross Dartmoor in a blizzard imported direct from Siberia seemed foolhardy, so I remain two days short of where I should be. On the plus side, my heel held up alright.
 


The South West Odyssey (English Branch)